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Robert Parker vs Romanee-Conti vs Penfolds Grange

Iherezo ryabashya barababaje, kandi amaherezo yabanywanyi ni menshi.

Igihe "Divayi Umwami w'abami" Robert Parker yari ku butegetsi, uburyo nyamukuru mu isi ya vino kwari ugukora divayi irimo ibibabi biremereye, uburyohe bwinshi, impumuro nziza yimbuto hamwe n’ibinyobwa bisindisha Parker yakundaga. Kubera ko ubu bwoko bwa vino buhuye nindangagaciro nyamukuru yinganda zikora divayi, biroroshye cyane gutsindira ibihembo mubihembo bitandukanye bya divayi. Parker yerekana inzira yinganda zikora divayi, zerekana uburyo bwa divayi ikungahaye kandi idafite imipaka.

Ubu bwoko bwa vino bushobora kuba uburyo Parker akunda, kuburyo icyo gihe cyitwa "Igihe cya Parker". Icyo gihe Parker yari umwami w'abami wa vino. Yari afite uburenganzira bwo kubaho no gupfa kubera divayi. Igihe cyose yafunguye umunwa, yashoboraga kuzamura izina rya divayi ku rwego rwo hejuru. Imiterere yakundaga nuburyo divayi yarushanwaga.

Ariko burigihe hariho abantu bashaka kurwanya, batazaba inzira nyamukuru, kandi bagakurikiza imigenzo yasizwe nabasekuruza babo kandi ntibakurikize inzira, nubwo divayi batanga idashobora kugurishwa kubiciro bihanitse; abo bantu ni "bashaka gutanga vino nziza babikuye ku mutima". Ba nyiri Chateau, ni udushya kandi duhanganye nindangagaciro zubu.

Bamwe muribo ni banyiri divayi bakurikiza imigenzo gusa: Nzakora ibyo sogokuru yakoze. Kurugero, Burgundy yamye itanga vino nziza kandi igoye. Ibisanzwe Romanee-Conti byerekana vino nziza kandi nziza. Imiterere ya vintage.

Bamwe muribo ni banyiri divayi bashira amanga kandi bagashya, kandi ntibatsimbaraye kuri dogma yabanjirije iyi: urugero, mugihe bakora vino, bashimangira kudakoresha umusemburo wubucuruzi, ariko bagakoresha gusa umusemburo gakondo, usanzwe mubinyobwa byamamare bizwi cyane. i Rioja, muri Esipanye; niyo divayi nkiyi izaba ifite uburyohe "budashimishije" ", ariko ubunini nubwiza bizamuka kurwego rwo hejuru;

Bafite kandi abahatana ku mategeko ariho, nk'umwami wa divayi wo muri Ositaraliya n'inzoga ya Penfolds Grange, Max Schubert. Amaze gusubira muri Ositaraliya nyuma yo kwiga tekinike yo gukora divayi muri Bordeaux, yizeraga adashidikanya ko Sira yo muri Ositaraliya ishobora no guteza imbere impumuro nziza yo gusaza kandi ikagaragaza imico idasanzwe nyuma yo gusaza.

Igihe yatekaga bwa mbere Grange, yakiriye urw'agashinyaguro, ndetse na divayi yamutegetse guhagarika guteka Grange. Ariko Schubert yizeraga imbaraga zigihe. Ntiyakurikije icyemezo cya divayi, ahubwo yabyaye rwihishwa, aranywa, kandi arashaje; hanyuma agatanga ibisigaye ku gihe. Mu myaka ya za 1960, amaherezo mu myaka ya za 1960, Grange yerekanye imbaraga zikomeye zo gusaza kwa divayi yo muri Ositaraliya, kandi Ositaraliya nayo yari ifite umwami w’umuvinyu.

Grange yerekana uburyo bwa vino burwanya gakondo, bwigomeke, butari dogmatique.

Abantu barashobora gushima abashya, ariko abantu bake barabishyura.

Guhanga udushya muri divayi biragoye. Kurugero, uburyo bwo gutoranya inzabibu ni uguhitamo intoki cyangwa gutoragura imashini? Kurugero, uburyo bwo gukanda umutobe winzabibu, burakanda kumuti cyangwa gukanda buhoro? Urundi rugero ni ugukoresha umusemburo. Abantu benshi bemeza ko umusemburo kavukire (ntayindi musemburo wongeyeho mugihe ukora vino, kandi umusemburo utwarwa ninzabibu ubwawo wemerewe gusembura) urashobora gusembura impumuro nziza kandi ihinduka, ariko inzoga zikenera isoko ryingutu. Byabaye ngombwa ko usuzuma imisemburo yubucuruzi yagumana uburyo bwa divayi ihamye.

Abantu benshi batekereza gusa ibyiza byo gutoragura intoki, ariko ntibashaka kubyishyura.

Kujya kure gato, ubu ni ibihe bya nyuma ya Parker (ubaze uhereye mu kiruhuko cy'izabukuru cya Parker), kandi inzoga nyinshi kandi nyinshi zitangiye gutekereza ku ngamba zabanjirije gukora divayi. Mu kurangiza, dukwiye guteka uburyo bwuzuye kandi butagira imipaka "icyerekezo" ku isoko, cyangwa dukwiye guteka uburyo bwa vino bwiza kandi bworoshye, cyangwa uburyo bushya kandi butekereza?

Intara ya Oregon yo muri Amerika yatanze igisubizo. Batetse Pinot Noir nziza kandi nziza nka Burgundy mubufaransa; Hawke's Bay muri Nouvelle-Zélande yatanze igisubizo. Batetse kandi Pinot Noir muri Nouvelle-Zélande idashimwa na Bordeaux yo gukura kwambere.

Hawke's Bay's "Classified Chateau", Nzandika ingingo idasanzwe yerekeye New Zealand nyuma.

Mu majyepfo ya Pyrenees yu Burayi, ahantu hitwa Rioja, hari na divayi itanga igisubizo:

Divayi yo muri Espanye iha abantu igitekerezo cyuko hakoreshejwe ingunguru nyinshi za oak. Niba amezi 6 adahagije, bizaba amezi 12, kandi niba amezi 12 adahagije, bizaba amezi 18, kuko abenegihugu nkimpumuro nziza yazanwe no gusaza cyane.

Ariko hariho divayi ishaka kuvuga oya. Batetse vino ushobora kumva iyo uyinyweye. Ifite impumuro nziza kandi iturika yimbuto, ihumura kandi ifite ubutunzi bwinshi. Divayi gakondo.

Iratandukanye na vino yoroshye yimbuto zitukura zo muri Isi Nshya, ariko bisa nuburyo bwera, bukize kandi butangaje bwa Nouvelle-Zélande. Niba nkoresheje amagambo abiri kugirango mbisobanure, byaba "byera", impumuro nziza, kandi kurangiza nabyo bifite isuku cyane.

Iyi ni Rioja Tempranillo yuzuye kwigomeka no gutungurwa.

Byatwaye ishyirahamwe rya divayi muri Nouvelle-Zélande imyaka 20 kugirango tumenye neza ururimi rwabo rwamamaza, arirwo "Pure", ni uburyo, filozofiya ikora divayi, n'imyitwarire ya divayi zose zo muri Nouvelle-Zélande. Ndibwira ko iyi ari vino "nziza" yo muri Espagne ifite imyumvire ya Nouvelle-Zélande.

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Igihe cyo kohereza: Gicurasi-24-2023